Iceland: Circling the Land of Fire & Ice

Arrive at Keflavik International Airport where you are met on arrival and transferred to our hotel in Reykjavik, about a 45-minute drive. If you arrive early, you may store your bags at our conveniently located hotel while you explore this compact, walkable city on your own. This evening, join our Expedition Leader for a welcome dinner at a local restaurant, with an orientation to all the adventures that lie ahead in this geological wonderland.

Explore Iceland's south coast en route to Vik, an area known for its volcanic black sand beaches and countless waterfalls. We are in the region affected by the powerful 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajokull volcano, an event brought to life at the Lava Center, which features interactive exhibits depicting the colossal natural forces that have created Iceland over tens of millions of years. Our knowledge of Iceland's dynamic geology is enhanced as we learn about the eruptions and lava flows, rift systems, faults and glacial floods that make the island a showcase of volcanism. The center introduces us to the UNESCO Katla Global Geopark plus Iceland's elaborate monitoring system for surveying volcanos and earthquake zones.

Continuing along the south coast, we stop at several thundering waterfalls, including powerful Skogafoss and Kvernufoss, where the force of nature is utterly palpable. The Dyrholaey Peninsula, famous for its massive rock arch eroded from the cape, holds some of Iceland’s best Atlantic puffin viewing, with a large migratory colony found here. Other seabirds abound, including eider ducks. After a walk on the famous black sand beach, we're off next to Reynisdrangar Rocks, a trio of columnar basalt sea stacks. Legend holds that they were formed after two trolls were out fishing in a three-masted ship. When the trolls did not return to their cave before sunrise, they and their vessel turned into needles of stone, since trolls cannot tolerate daylight.

Our focus today is Skaftafell, a national park now absorbed inside the larger Vatnajokull National Park established in 2008. Known for its rugged landscapes, mountains and glaciers, Skaftafell contains about half of the Vatnajokull Glacier, Europe’s largest ice cap. No roads penetrate the park’s wild recesses, but two options offer a chance to explore a slice of it: Choose between a walk atop a glacier or an easy hike with glacial views. We then board a private Zodiac to explore Fjallsarlon Glacier Lagoon, a less-touristed opportunity to get close to floating icebergs. The lake is the meltwater from Fjallsarlon Glacier, a tongue of the massive Vatnajokull Glacier, which has calved the huge chunks of blue ice that drift on the surface.

Enjoy a day of cultural connections as we enter the East Fjords, a little-visited region of forests, farms and picturesque fishing villages. In Djupivogur, take a scenic walk along the coast near Alftafjordur, then join a local resident for a stroll around the historic fishing town, learning about daily life where traditions and livelihoods center on the sea. Then admire the Eggs of Merry Bay, one of Iceland’s most unusual sculptures. Created in 2009 by Icelandic artist Sigurdur Gudmundsson, the 34 large-scale egg replicas represent 34 bird species found in the area, each one mounted on a platform along the harbor.

Heading inland, follow a remote road to Vallanes Farm where we stop for hot drinks and snacks at this organic farm and cafe crafted of sustainably harvested wood. Continue to Modrudalur, one of the oldest farms in Iceland, with evidence of its presence since the original settlement by the Vikings. The site was an important crossroads where two historic cross-country trails intersected, and its location is referenced in the famous Sagas that date to the 10th and 11th centuries. Modrudalur is also the highest inhabited place in Iceland, at 1,539 feet above sea level. We spend the next two nights here at Fjalladyrd, a hospitable family-run farm and guesthouse that offers easy access to our 4x4 adventure tomorrow.

Set out this morning in Super Jeeps—kitted-out high-clearance 4x4s—to explore the hidden wonders of eastern Iceland’s highlands. These large SUVs have been modified with big tires and extra shock absorption to provide a more comfortable ride over off-road terrain, allowing deeper access into this remote region. Iceland's vast highlands are the largest wilderness in Europe, where many of the country's myths and legends have originated. A place where human history and wilderness mesh, it has inspired generations of poets, artists and conservationists.

Weather and local conditions will dictate exactly where we go, but the options are myriad for exploring this lunar-like landscape, replete with volcanoes, waterfalls and stark canyons. We'll stop at Troll Rocks, a mysterious stack of massive boulders with no known origin, and take a break for tea at a traditional turf house. Unless strong winds prohibit, we'll marvel at Hafrahvammagljufur Canyon, a 650-foot-deep gorge, from high grassy slopes overlooking the chasm. Ultimately, we make our way to Laugarvalladalur, a verdant valley warmed by a geothermal creek and known for its hot springs waterfall that doubles as a natural shower. Return to Modrudalur for a second night at Fjalladyrd.

Witness the power of Dettifoss, Europe’s largest waterfall by volume and the mightiest cataract in Iceland. This thundering curtain of water, 330 feet wide and 150 high, is fed by the giant Vatnajokull Glacier. If we're lucky, we might see a rainbow over the falls. Next, explore the Hverarond geothermal area, an otherworldly setting of hissing steam vents, bubbling mud pots, cracked earth and pungent sulphur. Then continue to Lake Myvatn, formed during a massive eruption 2,300 years ago. The Myvatn region is still a site of geothermal activity, with lava flows coming most recently from the 1984 eruption of Krafla volcano. Numerous lava formations are found in and around the shallow lake. These phenomena are formed when lava flows over wet ground, pushing it down and trapping steam. As pressure mounts, steam explosions create fascinating "false craters." One of the premier birdwatching areas in the world for northern ducks and Arctic waterbirds, Lake Myvatn’s marshes provide habitat for huge numbers of migratory birds in summer. More than 115 species have been seen at the lake, including 13 species of nesting ducks.

This afternoon, explore the fascinating lava formations around Lake Myvatn on horseback. This optional 1-hour private ride offers a striking vantage point on the region's wondrous geological features, including whimsically shaped pillars and a close-up look at a false crater. For those who may not wish to ride, a scenic walk is an alternative. Later today, enjoy a quintessentially Icelandic experience with a soak in a nearby thermal bath. At Earth Lagoon Myvatn, amid clouds of steam rising from a fissure deep in the Earth, immerse yourself in soothing, milky-turquoise water that's naturally heated by geothermal forces. Drawn from depths of up to a mile and a half below the surface, temperatures in the lagoon pools range from 98°F to 103°F.

The day begins with a stop at Dimmuborgir, a dramatic lava field formed by a volcanic eruption some 2,300 years ago and distinguished by towering rock pillars, caves and unusual lava formations. Continuing westward, we stop at Godafoss, one of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls originating deep in the highlands. Shaped like a crescent, it drops 40 feet over a sheer volcanic cliff. Reaching Akureyri, connect with our late-afternoon chartered flight to Isafjordur, with scenic views of Iceland's indented coastline and glacier-carved interior en route. Originally settled in the 9th century, Isafjordur became a trading post for foreign merchants in the 16th century and today is the main town in the remote Westfjords in far-northwest Iceland.

Set out to explore the far-flung Westfjords today, a region on very few Iceland itineraries. We begin with a journey to Aedey Island by private boat, looking for whales and birdlife along the way. This rugged outpost marked by coastal cliffs, towering sea stacks and secluded coves, is best known for its eider duck population. These protected birds produce eiderdown, a rare and luxurious natural insulation filling renowned for its warmth and light weight. Iceland produces 75% of the world’s eiderdown through sustainable harvesting. After the ducks’ eggs hatch and the chicks have fledged, the birds abandon their eiderdown-lined nests, and the farmers who have protected them against natural predators collect the precious material. Just one family lives and farms on the island, and they guide us through Aedey’s history and the down collection process. A short scenic walk reveals more of the island, and we’re likely to see puffins, guillemots and terns. Our Westfjords adventure continues as our boat navigates the intricate fjord system, searching for humpback and minke whales.

From Isafjordur, we head to a part of the vast Hornstrandir Nature Reserve that can only be reached by boat. A wild, untouched realm of sea cliffs, tundra and glacier-carved fjords, this 220-square-mile landscape in the most remote corner of Iceland has been protected since 1974. Humans inhabited scattered settlements along Hornstrandir's bays and coves in recent centuries, although they were abandoned in the 1950s as residents sought growing job opportunities and an escape from harsh living conditions, leaving for surrounding towns. No roads, power lines or other manmade structures remain except for a few summerhouses that dot parts of the area.

Millions of seabirds nest on Hornstrandir’s high vertical cliffs, and the reserve is also home to Arctic foxes that roam freely on the land. We often see whales and puffins on our way to Kviar, our base for discovering the Hornstrandir region. Kviar was a large farm until 1948, when the family that lived here joined their neighbors in search of an easier life elsewhere. The old farmhouse, now called Kviar Lodge, has been renovated as a cozy base for exploration, and we may see foxes playing outside. We take a short walk up the valley to experience the remote beauty of our tundra environs, maybe catching a glimpse of rare species such as the white-tailed eagle. If we see foxes, we respect their summer breeding season, keeping our distance.

Returning to Isafjordur, enjoy dinner at the Tar House restaurant, renowned for its fish stew and fresh Icelandic seafood. From our hotel, it's an easy walk back into town later this evening in the lingering light of Iceland's long summer days.

Step into Iceland’s deep geological past and rich cultural tapestry on a Super Jeep journey in the Westfjords. On this immersive tour, explore how the dramatic forces of geology have not only shaped the towering mountains but also defined the lives, legends and livelihoods of the people who have called this region home from the Viking Age to the present day. Our adventure begins in Isafjordur, the heart of the Westfjords, before crossing into the neighboring fjord of Dyrarfjordur where we stop in the charming village of Thingeyri—a historic site that was once a Viking assembly point. 

Along the route to Arnafjordur, we pass through an area rich in cultural and geological significance, including active archaeological sites where researchers are excavating early iron-smelting operations. These digs give unique insight into how early Icelanders harnessed the volcanic geology of the region to create tools, forge connections and survive in a raw and rugged environment. Each layer of basalt, each scree slope and glacial valley tells a story not just of millennia of volcanic and glacial activity, but of human resilience and adaptation to the forces of nature. Returning to Isafjordur, we have an early farewell dinner and then head to the airport for our evening flight to Reykjavik.

After breakfast, a transfer to Keflavik International Airport is included to meet departing flights.