Land of the Snow Leopard

Arrive at the international airport in India’s capital of Delhi and transfer to our upscale 5-star hotel conveniently located in Aerocity, the airport area's sprawling hospitality district. This evening, join our Expedition Leader for a welcome dinner and preview of our journey into the Indian Himalaya and the realm of Panthera uncia, the snow leopard.

Early this morning, we head to the airport to board our flight north to the former Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh. This is one of India’s least-populated regions, known for its austere landscape dominated by dramatic peaks, monasteries filled with golden Buddhas, and the elusive snow leopards that prowl the heights of these rocky, arid mountain environs. Once we touch down at 11,500 feet in the Ladakhi capital of Leh, our high-altitude acclimatization begins. For centuries, Leh was a crossroads for Indus Valley trade between Tibet, Kashmir, India and China—routes that carried salt, cashmere wool, indigo and silk. The local people are ethnic Tibetans who speak Ladakhi, and Buddhism and Islam have co-existed peacefully here since the 8th century. Our lodging in the heart of this ancient city sits in the shadow of an unoccupied 17th-century palace designed to evoke the Dalai Lama’s former residence in Lhasa—the famous Potala Palace. The rest of the day is at leisure as we settle in and adjust to the high elevation.

Today we travel into the rugged rural area surrouding Leh in the Indus River Valley. It's easy to see why this enclave at the northern tip of India is often called “Little Tibet,” as we cross passes marked with colorful prayer flags below towering Himalayan peaks. As we travel, be on the lookout for blue sheep, golden eagles and bearded vultures. A highlight is our visit to Gya, the oldest village in Ladakh, perched on a gorge overlooking the river. A group of villagers greets us with a special welcome before taking us on a guided tour of their town during which we learn about animal husbandry, handicrafts and textiles, and traditional barley roasting and cooking. Archery is an important element of Ladakhi culture, and we visit a range where we watch archers in their element—with a chance to try your own hand with a bow and arrow. After lunch in a local home, set out on foot with our guide to explore the regional landscape, where the odds are high to spot blue sheep and birdlife. Return to Leh by late afternoon, with some time to rest as we continue to acclimatize.

Following the Indus River westward, our route takes us deep into the snow leopard's realm. The Rumbak region is the gateway to a wild and austere landscape ruled by the “gray ghost of the mountains”—a name given to the snow leopard by local people for its elusive and enigmatic nature. Our private ecolodge was recently constructed using traditional Ladakhi techniques and materials, including stone, mud and timber, chosen for their natural insulating properties. The finest accommodation in the region, it features radiant floor heating, hot running water, and double-glazed windows to ensure warmth. The lodge is set on a plateau with panoramic views of the snow-crowned mountains and Rumbak River below. The nearby village of Rumbak, population 250, is a short walk away.

Over the next five days, we search the alpine heights in and around Hemis National Park, which holds the highest density of snow leopards in any protected area in the world—about 200 individuals. These trans-Himalayan cats have evolved to thrive in some of Earth’s harshest alpine terrain, mostly above treeline and up to 18,000 feet in elevation. In addition to snow leopards, this habitat supports three large ungulates—bharal (blue sheep), urial (mountain sheep) and rarely seen ibex—along with fox, hare, pika and packs of Tibetan wolves.

For our best chance to see snow leopards, we rely on the expertise and keen eyes of a team of top local spotters, plus our naturalist Expedition Leader. These seasoned trackers scour the landscape early each morning to help us plan our route for the day, increasing our luck of seeing these cats whose camouflage helps them blend in seamlessly with their environs. We also maintain radio contact with trackers throughout the day, so we know when snow leopards wander into our area. Private vehicles maximize our flexibility to move to where the snow leopards are. Typically, we spot them on high ridges around our lodge or within a short walk from the vehicles, but longer hikes are available for those who wish. In between excursions, the lodge offers a cozy respite where we can warm up with hot chai. Nearby are Ladakhi cultural sites including Buddhist temples and monasteries, which we visit if time allows.

After breakfast, enjoy a final morning in Rumbak, soaking in the peace and solitude of this alpine domain. Soon, it's time to say farewell to our gracious Ladakhi hosts whose lodge enterprise is helping to enhance protection for snow leopards in the area. These regal cats face threats from habitat loss due to climate change, reduced prey, poaching and human conflict. Yet we leave knowing that our presence here makes a difference for their future, with the value of our economic contribution and our advocacy on their behalf. Back in Leh, have lunch at our hotel. There may be time to do some last-minute shopping afterward if markets are open. Later this evening, share highlights and reflections over a farewell dinner.

Fly from Leh to Delhi this morning and continue to our hotel where an overnight room is reserved. A delicious lunch awaits at the hotel, followed by time to relax among landscaped gardens and pools. A transfer to the international airport is included to meet departing flights this evening.