On the outdoor platform of our Polar Rover, the chill Arctic air feels invigorating. But not as much as the sight of the huge polar bear that wanders up alongside. Safely elevated above him, you’re nonetheless just feet away as you peer down at his shaggy, cream-colored bulk. Noticing us, he stops, sniffs, and turns his face our way, curious. Awed, we draw in our breath, respecting the silence. The big bear ambles,
then halts again. He rises on his haunches to peer at us more deliberately. We grin like kids, filled with delight. We watch. We wonder. Minutes go by, perhaps an hour, who knows. On the tundra, among the bears, time stands still.