Escape the big cruise ships on an Alaskan adventure that immerses you in wildlife, not crowds of tourists. Alaska’s Southeast Panhandle is wilderness on the grandest of scales. Ice-capped mountains, rising 15,000 feet from the sea, are the backdrop for a maze of fjords carved by glaciers. The world’s largest temperate rain forest blankets hundreds of islands that dot the Inside Passage, the sheltered saltwater route that lies between the open Pacific and the Coast Range. Bears, whales, seals and eagles dominate these environs, where human presence is slight. On foot and at sea, we feel small and insignificant—just as we’d hoped to.